hiking

Carpe Diem

11/10/2017 by John 2 Comments

We did not see the sun much the first two weeks of October. Every day looked much like the day before, with a layer of gray cloud covering Portland and varying levels of moisture falling from the sky. We were all too happy to escape the gloom and fly back east to be a part of the North Carolina Outward Bound School’s 50th Anniversary celebration. We awoke from our red-eye flight to a fall day in the Southern Appalachians, one of the best places to be in the world. The sun was bright, the days warm, and the evenings comfortably cool. It was what I expect October weather to be, and it is the kind of weather that has too often lulled me into not taking full advantage of all it has to offer.

We boarded our flight back to the Northwest dreading the cloudy skies and chilly winds we feared were awaiting us there. When we arrived, what we found instead were clear views of Mount Hood and Mount Saint Helens and pleasant temperatures. It was a mid-fall gift, and we decided we must take full advantage of it.

Wednesday: Go for a hike at Mount Hood
Thursday: bike around the riverfront downtown and take the aerial tram for great views of the city and surrounding mountains
Friday: Drive to the coast to walk and talk on the beach all day
Saturday: Go for a nice long run around town
Sunday-Tuesday: head up to Mount Rainer to hike in the woods, sit by a campfire, and enjoy stunning views of the Northwest from the flanks of the mountain

It was one of the best weeks we’ve had in a long time. Every morning, we would wake up, see that the weather was still going to be good, and we would pick an adventure and get out of the house as soon as possible. It was obvious during the week that many other people were doing the same as we were: taking advantage of the weather window and seizing the day.

The week made me think about all the good weather days I’ve had in my lifetime back in the Southeast, of how many adventures I could have had, but didn’t because in my mind there was always tomorrow, when the weather was still probably going to be good. Experiencing fall in the Northwest has taught me to take advantage of those bits of time when the sun breaks through the clouds, or at least when the rain stops falling, to get out there and do something.

I hope I remember this the next time I live in a place where the sun shines more days than not. But more importantly, I hope I can remember that it’s not about the weather anyway. Come rain or shine, it’s up to me to seize the day.

Happy Anniversary North Carolina Outward Bound

10/19/2017 by John Leave a Comment

A crew mate and I beginning a night paddle while on the semester course in Everglades National Park.

I am back in Asheville this week to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the North Carolina Outward Bound School. When I arrived at Table Rock in the fall of 1996 to be a student on a semester-long course, I was 26 years old and utterly adrift. I was depressed, unsure of myself, and where I fit in. Eighty-something days and hundreds of miles hiked and paddled later, I awoke on a mountain in Costa Rica with a sea of stars overhead and something I don’t think I had felt in far too many years: possibility. After years of being asleep, my eyes opened to the wonders of the world around me, and the realization that I can do so much more than I ever imagined. Outward Bound not only taught me how to live, it taught me how to be alive.

Thank you North Carolina Outward Bound, and Happy 50th Anniversary.

10 Tips for Walking The Camino de Santiago

03/03/2017 by John Leave a Comment

I walked the Camino de Santiago in May and June of 2016. I did minimal planning before arriving in Spain and learned a few things along the way. What follows are some words of advice based on my experience. Some of these tips are practical while some are more philosophical.

Wear trail running shoes or light-weight hiking shoes
This type of footwear is more comfortable than a pair of heavy hiking boots. I walked the Camino Frances, where the technical sections are short and the majority occur early in the journey. The people I saw experiencing problems with their feet had typically been wearing boots. I suggest wearing hiking boots only if you have a history of ankle injuries and are concerned about the possibility of reinjurying them. If you decide to wear boots, you should break them in before starting the Camino.
Carry less to enjoy more

You will enjoy the experience much more if you are not lugging around a heavy pack. I carried a 47 liter pack that was about two-thirds full. A pack of around 30 liters should be enough to carry what you need. A bigger pack cries out to be filled, and the extra items will wear you down as you carry them across the breadth of Spain. Plus, part of the reason to walk the Camino is to experience living with less. If you are physically unable to carry even a small pack, don’t let that stop you from walking the Camino. There are several services that deliver bags between albergues (pilgrim hostels) for a low cost. Check out JacoTrans or Caminofacil if you are interested in this option.
Be aware that May is now a busy time on the Camino Frances.

My initial research indicated that the busiest months to walk the Camino Frances are June through August. This is no longer the case. The locals I talked to said that May was now busier than the summer months. 250 pilgrims began their journey the day I walked out of Saint Jean Pied-de-Port. If you like being around people, great, but if you want a quieter experience, consider a different month to walk the Camino Frances. Another option is to walk one of the less frequented routes of the Camino de Santiago.
Consider carefully whether to book lodging ahead of time.

Pro: You can enjoy your day not worrying about where you will sleep that night. On more than one occasion, I saw pilgrims arriving in a town only to find there were no beds available. It is possible to book many albergues the day before your arrival or in the morning the day of.

Con: You miss out on the spontaneity of making decisions about how far to go and where to stay on the spur of the moment.

I booked ahead about half of the nights I was on the Camino. On a different route or at another time of year, I probably would not have booked ahead (see tip 3). If I do another camino, I will do less planning ahead. Having my lodging predetermined for the evening did not allow me to be fully with the experience by letting it take me where it would for the day. But, it was nice to have confirmed bookings in the major cities so I knew I would be staying in a convenient part of town. Reservations were also helpful for isolated villages with limited beds. Services I used to make bookings included bookings.com and pilgrimsonly.com.
Plan ahead for meals, especially on weekends

On a typical day, I would finish walking, famished, around 3 pm: when everything in Spain is closed. In the smaller villages on Sundays, it can be difficult to find anything open anytime of the day. Plan ahead and always have snacks on hand for those times when you want a bite to eat and everyone in the entire country is taking a nap.
Do even more meal planning if you are vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free, etc.

If you like meat, you are going to love Spain. If that’s not your thing, food can be a challenge. Plant-based eating is gaining in popularity and options became more plentiful closer to Santiago. Several albergues cater to vegetarians. Major towns and cities had health food stores where I would stock up. I used Happy Cow to find places and I recently found this list of vegan and vegetarian options on the Camino Frances. Spain is also a wonderful place if you like bread. Many days there would be a fresh baguette sticking out of the top of my pack. If gluten is a problem for you, major towns and cities have health food stores where you may find some gluten-free products.
Give yourself time to enjoy the journey

My camino took 38 days total. I hiked from Saint Jean to Santiago in 34 days taking one full day off. After spending two nights in Santiago, I walked the Camino Finisterre to the Atlantic Ocean. I did what I wanted to do in the time I had allowed myself, but it was a push the last week to make it. A few off days to enjoy the areas I passed through would have been nice.
You don’t need to be able to speak Spanish, but try and learn some anyway.

The Camino Frances receives thousands of visitors from around the world every year. Pilgrim specific signs and menus are often written in 3 to 4 languages. The locals you will interact with in restaurants and stores deal with people who do not speak their language on a consistent basis. However, it will enhance you experience if you make the effort to talk with locals and other pilgrims in their native language.
Expect the unexpected

You might meet the Australian who gives out hugs in a remote village in Galicia. You could find the fountain of wine. At the top of a mountain, an unmanned kiosk stocked with healthy foods will be waiting for you. Expect pains in parts of your body that you never knew existed. Expect that a church in the smallest of villages might leave you in more awe than the famous cathedrals of Burgos or León. Expect to see the best in people and to be humbled by the kindness of others.
Enjoy each step of the journey

No matter how much your feet hurt, or how much you miss your friends back home, remember, this is your camino and it will be only a memory much too soon.

For more pictures of my journey, please visit me on Instagram.